Finding Chiang Mai’s Soul on the Samoeng Loop

My family and I woke to the rattle of the tin roof outside our house as a thunderstorm rolled into the valley after months of dry weather and forest fires. It was the start of a new season, yet the end of our eight years in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Between the rumble of thunder and the gentle dance of the rain, we sat in silence as we felt our time in this beautiful country come to a close.

These are the contradictions of Chiang Mai. The chaos of vehicle motors hums alongside the peaceful songs of birds and insects. Markets are loud with music, while sweet, sour and spicy flavours send even the most seasoned Thai-food lover into an appreciative trance. Every sound, smell and view seems to ask: how can so many things exist at once? This question draws in visitors and locals alike, beckoning them to explore the beauty and vibrancy that permeate every street.

The Samoeng Loop is a haven for the complex soul of Chiang Mai. During the COVID-19 pandemic, I got lost on its web of backroads in search of abandoned buildings, cafés and a sense of peace amidst uncertainty. Five years later, its essence remained unchanged, calling me back to get lost in the hidden treasures tucked into its lush forests, mountains and winding roads.

The Loop Begins: Bunny Hop Cafe

Despite the abundance of new cafes in Chiang Mai, I knew our late breakfast had to be at Bunny Hop Cafe. Five years ago, it was my family’s go-to spot for a quick, delicious meal. As I went to place my order, I immediately recognized the store owner we once befriended.

 “Tell your family anytime they’re visiting in Chiang Mai, we would love to have them stop by,” she told me.

 This is the kindness, friendliness and hospitality that flows throughout Thailand and summons visitors back into its borders. The Pad-Kra-Pao was as delicious as I’d remembered all these years. 

The First Stop: Valley Coffee

On the left-hand side of the road is Valley Coffee. Although part of Lanna Resort, the cafe is popular due to its fun swing decor alongside a river. We grabbed a Thai Tea and headed out to the riverbank, which is now equipped with ropes and tubes for swimming. These grounds are enshrouded with tall trees and paths to explore, awash with the sound of the rushing river.

A Secret Spot: Éléphants au Naturels

I discovered Éléphants au Naturels years prior on a bikeride while watching the mahouts (elephant caretakers) and their elephants walk down the road. However, the main hint to the small camp's existence is the “Elephant Crossing” sign. A little hike down from the rocky parking lot, we found the elephants grazing by a covered shelter. The mahouts kindly offered to take photos of us with the elephants, who greeted us with a gentle hug of their trunks. If you follow the sound of the river, you may even get to see them bathing in a waterfall! 

Insider recommendation:

Less than 5 kilometres from Éléphants au Naturels is Tat Krok Waterfall, one of the most unique yet overlooked waterfalls in Chiang Mai. Pull off to the side of the road and wander through a short hike to a natural waterslide that empties into an opening where you can cliff jump and swim.

(Image credit: Mikael Frivold)

Sameong Loop Viewpoint

As we drove further up the road, we found ourselves at the heart of the loop, overlooking the first open viewpoint. The covered gazebo provided shelter from the sun and a place to soak in the views of the endless mountain valleys. I took out my cameras for a quintessential shot of the seemingly untouched mountains called the “foothills of the Himalayas”. 

Lunch: Proud Phu Fah

This mountain hotel is one of the hidden food gems in Chiang Mai that I missed the most. Upon pulling into the parking lot of Proud Phu Fah, we were greeted by two of the many rabbits that call the resort home. As we passed dense green trees and bridges over streams, a sense of tranquillity surrounded us. With gardens and a viewpoint overlooking the village below, the restaurant made us feel equally at peace. 

Every single dish is fantastic, but my personal favourite is their Tom Kha Gai. We also ordered a classic Thai omelette, spicy fried chicken and rice rolls with a tangy dipping sauce straight from paradise (and of course another Thai tea). While we waited for our food, we explored the small grounds, complete with a pool, playground, and a garden home for the rabbits. 

Mon Jam

Our next stop was a new spot called Mon Jam, which I discovered through my friend Minnie (@thaidupwithminnie). The parking lot is at the far end of the village, which is home to a local hill tribe group called the Hmong. If you need another snack, many of the vendors sell local fruit alongside textiles and souvenirs. 

As we made our way up the hill past the vibrant market stalls, we reached the top and paid a 60 baht entrance fee. Brightly coloured flowers and garden paths encapsulated the hillside, with swings, decks and monuments outstretched to meet the expansive valley below. Along the far side stood tall, circular branches of bamboo, upholding restaurant decks. We wandered between viewpoints and flowers, soaking in the endless green forests that stood below, nearly forgetting that a bustling city lay around the corner.

Just in time for Sunset: Lake Aunjai Reservoir

We arrived at our last destination just in time for sunset. On the grounds of Chiang Mai University is Lake Aunjai Reservoir, which sits peacefully in the shadows of Doi Suthep and the bustle of Chiang Mai. The grounds are a runner's dream with many trails and quiet backroads to explore — a detail my father embraced when teaching me to drive.

Just outside of Lake Aunjai is Fernpresso at Lake, a cute cafe with a swing facing the lake, the perfect spot to soak in the golden views of Doi Suthep sparkling in the water. I sat on the nearby dock with my cameras to capture the serenity of the moment and reflect on my long-anticipated return to the city.

I’ve heard many stories about the changes in Chiang Mai, yet the moment I left the airport, it felt like no time had passed. It was as if a part of myself had been waiting for me all along, saying, “Welcome home, you will always belong here.” The busy streets, kind people and stillness of its nature speak the same words to visitors. Whether it be the food, waterfalls or mountain roads, there is always something to discover (perhaps by getting lost) that will instill an appreciation for the chaos and peace that welcome visitors side-by-side.